LMC Journal No 5, April 1945

XiQLICND

M OUKT Aj' MLLk IN G

CLUB

!

THE

JOURNAL.

Mo. 5 •

APRIL, 194

EDITORIAL!

In this issue we have included one on two articles by members
which we believe should prove interesting and- informative. We
hope this type of contribution will become a feature of the journal
as the best medium for circulating general information on mountain-
•eerlng.

All notices should be sent to the Editor, H, GRANT, 12,

CLINGART ROAD, GLASGOW, 3,2.

———o Oo----

APPRECIATION t

When we stood round the low-roofed kitchen of the Shepherd’s
house in Glencoe on that momentous Sunday morning of September,

1939, listening to the declaration of war through the radio. It
seemed to me as if the Club was doomed. Indeed It would have been
had it not been for you valient members who have kept it in oxist-
sence through those years of trial and vexation.

When I was called up and had no word from tho Club for a fow
months, it seemed to mo as if the Club has disintegrated like so
many other Clubs, Then one day 1 heard from on-, of the members that
it was still in existence. Not only that - an excellent journal
arrived by post. From that day onwards I had a new feeling in life -
a realisation that after I am released from the Forces there will be
in existence an enthusiastic band of mountaineers 'whom I can join and
climb tho wonderful hills as in days of old. Yes, I appreciate very
much the work which has boon carried on by those members who have boon
left at home to bear the fiery torch. They can have tho satisfaction
of knowing that their efforts have not gone without praise.

When one is encased entirely in tho atmosphere of war it is
a most refreshing thought that outside the world of wax* there aro man
and women with balanced minds who are carrying on civilisation in
order that those in the forces may come back to a sane thinking world.
If it had not been for those folk, such as yourselves, carrying on
these organisations the whole world ’would be engulfed totally in
disaster,

Yes, my friends, it gives me groat satisfaction to know that at
these beautiful sunny weekends, on the distant hills, are small
companies of cheerful people wandering wherever they will - and some
day I will join them.

W, BOLTON

- 3 -

GARBH BHEINN OF ARDGOUR (2903 f t.)

Now that the travel ban is lifted from the Ardgour district,
it seem3 in order to draw attention to this fine hill and the
possibilities it offers for future pioneering.. Garbh Bheinn well
merits the enthusiastic description of the West Highland Guide, and
I can add little more than a few observations made during a Visit in
July, 1939 with Andrew Sanders (Croag Dhu),

We crossed Eoch Linnhe at Corran, joined the Glen Tarbert
bus for about six miles, and descended to the bridge of Glen lubhair,
For the two miles of our walk up Glen lubhair the going was easy v/ith
little increase in height until the last half mile. At a point just
above the junction of the allt a’Garbh Coire lihoir with the lubhair
Burn we crossed the latter and pitched our tent in the angle between
them. This camp-alto gives a fine view of the hills enclosing Glen
lubhair, but is too much overshadowed by Garbh Bheinn*s lower slopes
to give a full view of the crags.

Next morning Garbh Bhein was swathed in thick mist. We

climbed uo the steep course of the Allt A.’Garbh Coire Mhoir and at a
point several hundred feet above the camp we discovered some fine
sheltered caves on the right bank (ascending). Thecaves should
provide a good bivouac in settled weather. At a point where the
crags began to loom through the mi3t, we steered North as recommended
in the ’'Guide 1 ' for the best approach to the base of the Great Ridge
However, after a steep climb on vegetation and featureless crags, we
gained the summit ridge and guessed we had overshot the Great Ridge,

The summit oairn was soon reached, and here wo found ourselves in
an unusual and tantalising situation. The upper limit of the mist
was only a few feet above us and it is likely that another 10 to 20
feet of altitude would have landed us in bright sunlight. By a
curious inversion of temperature, the summit was like a steam-bath
after the cold mists of the crags, and each.time the mist thinned there
was a wave of heat and a brilliant flash of sunlight.

We removed our shirts, ate and smoked and then started off a.
on another attempt to locate the ridge,. We knew that it lay directly
below the summit and it was a simple matter to reach the col at the
head of Garbh Coire Mhoir, and descend from there to the south side
of the ridge. About halfway down the mist quickly cleared and reveal-
:ed a fine array of crags bounded by the sweeping profile of our ridge.
Travelling fast less the mist return, vie were soon on the lower crags
and ombarked on a splendid climb. To compensate far the almost too
accomodating nature of the rock, there is an abundance of sensational
corners and a continual sense of exposure; but there are other places-
where a shirtless climber is apt to deplore the ruggedness of Scottish
Scenery. The views of the unclimbed Great Gully were entriguing enough
to suggest a later visit, and the same can be said of other unclimbed
crag's on Garbh Bheinn 1 s East and North faces. As luck would have it
out? exploration was cut short by another onslaught of mist, and there
was little else to do but retrieve our shirts and return to camp by
way of . the Bealach Feith’n Amean and the headwaters of the lubhair
Burn.

- 3 -

There is a picture of Garbh Bheinn facing cage 14 of the
’'Guide 1 '• Our camp-spot (Firewood and Heather) is marked by ''J n
in the diagram and the caves are situated a little downstream from
"I" in the centre of the picture.

J.B, NBILBJ.

RUM AMD BIGG.

Members climbing in Glen Brittle this year may be interested
in taking advantage of the motor-boat journeys made by Ronald and
Donald McDonald* lobster fishermen from Seay, The McDonalds come
into Loch Brittle and will arrange to take parties to Rum, Eigg or
Loch Scavaig. Of particular interest is the opportunity afforded
of visiting the little known rocks cn Rum and Eigg.

Rum has five gabbro-topped summits over 2,000 feet - Alllval
2365, Ask ival 2659, Trallval 2300, Ashval 2552, and Sgurr Han
Billean 2503. Information on climbs is scanty though the S.M.6.
islands Guide nay bo consulted with profit. To explore the rocks
it would be necessary to stay on the island and, although Rum is a
deer forest and visitors are not welcomed, there should be no
objection outside the shooting season to camping in the hills.
Arrangements to be taken off again could be made with the McDQnalds,

Eigg is a friendly island and unlike Rum food supplies can be
obtained, and, if necessary board and lodgings. The island could
be visited on the way back from Skye and the journey to Mallaig
completed by the steamer which calls at Galmisdale on Wednesdays,

The outstanding feature is the 3gurr of Eigg, an impressive tower
of columnar pitchstone porphyry. Rock climbing information is
again scanty and there is undoubtedly room for new and exhilarating
routes,

The McDonalds go to Mallaig each Wednesday for supnlies and last
year proved willing to come round to Loch Brittle to take a party
with them. A small party -'hich would not justify the journey to
Loch Brittle they would no doubt pick up at the ferry landing
opposite 3oay and six miles from Glen Brittle, in fine weather
this is a more Interesting journey than overland route and offers a
continuous panorama of what is, to the rock-climber, the finest of
all mountain scenery.

P.L. McGEOCH,

CLUB MEETINGS.

Annual General Meeting. 1945 .

The Annual General Meeting was hold at the new Club Rooms
on 7th February, 1945* Twenty-one members were present and, as
usual, Mr. Harvey was in the chair. The Treasurer, Hr. Bell,
submitted Ms report for 1944—45 and once again the Club fac^s the
coining year in a” sound financial state. Mr. Harvey then moved a
vate/

n 4:

vote of thanks to the Secretary and Treasurer for their work
during the past year.

The Office-Bearers for the year 1945-46 were then elected
and are as follows*.

President,

R, Hutchison

J. Harvey*
Vice-Pr esiden ts,
Mrs.

Treasurer

J. Bell,

Committee Members,

P.L, McGeooh,
J.B, Nimlin*

Secre tary.

C, Pinlayson.

Trustees,

A, Hutcheson*

J, Harvey.

J, Nimlin

Journal Edit or,.
Tl.W'Grant.'

Auditors,

AGla’ck.

W. Russel,

A motion for revision of the Constitution was moved by C.
Finlayson and after considerable d5_scussion it was decided to
leave the matter in the hands of the Conrnittee.

MEETING-, MARCH 7 th, 1945. .

Mr. M, Travers, in recognition of his service to the Club in
past years, was elected an Honorary Member,

An application from Capt. Tom Llghtbody and hi.a wife for
membership was unanimously accepted and. we take this opportunity of
welcoming them to the Club.

The constitution as drafted by the Committee "was passed
after a few alterations had been made.

MEETING, APRIL,4th, 1945,

A notification was received from the Secretary cf the British
Mountaineering Council Inviting the Cluo to become affiliated, to
this body. A lengthy discussion followed but as no decision was
arrived at, the matter has been held: over until the next meeting.

CHJB NOTES.

Heartiest congratulations are extended to Alf Slack on his
recent marriage and to Bill Bolton on his engagement* Alf was
married on April 12th and Bill hopes to be married early in July,

Letters have arrived from the following members - Bill Bolton,
Sam Drysdale, Norrie Guy Tom Llghtbody and Bill Walker.

All these lads are unanimous in their desire to get back to

the/

- 5 ~

the hills again and we trust it will not be long now until their
hopes are realised. The hint passed on by the Editor that
Charlie McAteer might soon be running the bus again seemed like a
harbinger of peace to them.

LIBRARY.

he are greatly indebted to Mrs. Arline Smith,, widow of Jack
Smith, who has very kindly donated the sum of £5 towards the
provision of a complete set of Guide Books for the library. This
amount was realised from the sale of Jack's climbing gear and Mrs
Smith expressed the wish that the money should be utilised in this
manner. Complete sets of Guide Books are not at present available
but the money has been left aside until they can be procured when
they will be inscribed to Jack’s memory.

CLIMBING LITERATURE. - recommended by J.B. Nimlin.

914

"Pyrenean 11 by J.B. Morton, Glasgow Public library 6 ,

Not sensational, but an engrossing book of the hills and valleys of
the P’rench-Spanish frontier and their inhabitants. ' *

9,14

"2C Years on Ben Nevis" by Kilgour, Glasgow Public Library 121.
Very interesting history of the trials and adventures of the meteor—
ologlsts who lived in the Observatory.

"Hills Sleep On” by Dorothy Cannan.

Villanous spies versus heroine in the Himalayas.

"Lady of the Heights" by Dorothy Cannan.

"Brenva" by Graham Brown.

Thrilling pioneer work on a hitherto unclimbed wall of Mont Blanc.
SKI NOTES.

Ski-ing had a briof season this year but members seized the day
to brush up their rusty technique.

Alf Slack and Peter McGeoch had two ski-ing trips in the Camps ids
one of which was a trek from. Blanefield to Lennoxtown via Earl’s
Seat on deep but rapidly thawing snow. Without skis progress would
have been extremely difficult.

J. Harvey and the Nimlins spent two week-ends on skis above
Torrance. * On the second of these the party were on their way home
after a fine dayfe ski-ing when a telegraph pole loomed out of the
darkness. Harvey managed to avoid it but John Nimlin, heavily
handicapped with a pack full of logs, ran Into it. Forntunately*
he was none the worse of his experience.

- 7

On tho Saturday, a. Slack, A. Kay, A. & R. Hutcho son, made
the ascent of 3tob Colro Sgriodain. The climb was straightforward
but snow conditions poor. The remainder of the party spent the day
ski-ing.

Sunday found the entire party on Meall Gian Dcarg. Bad snow
conditions hold up one section and it was 4.30 before they reached
Stob Coire Bassain > having climbed Stob Goire Mheadoin on the way.

The de scent was made by way of an excellent glissade from Stob Goire
Mheadoin. Members found this little known ridge interesting enough
to recommend a visit to it.

R. Hutchison together with his wife and sen used the Monday
to climb Chno Dearg, thus completing the high tops on both sides of

Loch 'Treig.

° *

BEN LUX., March 3rd and 4th.

Members: R. Young, J. Stevenson, and P. McGeoch.

Camped at Coniniah in a rain storm and on the Sunday climbed
Central Gully on hard snow. The gully was just a walk.

CAIRNGORMS. March 10th to 1 3th.

Members A, Slack, R. Hutcheson, A. Kay.

(Extract from Shelter Stone took)

10.5.45. Arrived 3 pan. having left Aviemore at 4 a.m. and
spent an hour or two asleep in Rothiemurchus before starting the
ascent of the Lurchers Grag, A strong wind rose as we crossed the
plateau. The snow on the plateau was softish but it was harder as
we descended the F. Buidhe, and it was steep enough with our heavy
packs. After ... 11 drum up !i at the Shelter Stone we ascended Ben
Mheadhoin in a strong wind*

11.3.45. Left the stone 10,30 a.m. for Castle Gatos Gully.
The snow was very hard after a frost last night. We encountered an
interesting Ice-pitch near the summit of the gully. The snow on the
plateau was iron-hard as we walked, to Ben McDhui, The sun came out
as we left the gully and shone from a blue sky. A haze prevented
distant v ews but the Garbh Corrie showed up to advantage. A cold
breeze prevented sunbathing. Three glissades took us down to the
frozen shores of Loch Etchachan and after testing the ice we walked
round the edge back to' the stone.

12.3.45. Todny we plan to carry our packs over the . Saddle
on to Bynaok More and down to F.yovan from whence two of us have to
leave in time to catch the 1.15 a.m. at Aviemore. At the time of
writing ,preparations for departure are in progress and a swtali
breakfast fills the cavity under the stone.

{Extract from Ryvone Bothy Visitors 1 Book.)

13.3.45. /

8

15.3*45 Arrived, here at 3,45 p.m* after leaving Shelter
Stone at 10,45 a.m, with Alf Slack and Robert Hutcheson by way of
A'Choinnenoh and Bynack More, Visited the Barns of Bynock en
route.

Alf and Robbie left here 7.0 p.m. last night to catch the l.a.m*
train leaving Aviemore. Weather is now looking unsettled.

ARCH. KAY.

GLENCOE*, March, 17th & 18th*. 1945 .

Members 3 J.&.M. Raining, J. Stevenson, A. Slack, and P, MoGeoch.

Camped at Elliot's in a Glencoe Gale. Heavy rain in the
morning kept party off the hill. However, a look-see was taken at
Clachaig Chasm which was climbed until the finest big waterfall
dampened the thought of further progress.

During recent months, probably when the thaw set in, there
has been a large rock slide in the Chasm. The debris from this slide
(estimated at 100 tons) blocks the bed of the Chasm for about ninety
feet and has wiped out two small pitches* The tail end of the slide
extends to 150 ft. from the start of the Chasm proper.

CRAIGMINNON*, March 17th & 18th.

Members; J. Harvey and A. Kay.

In spite of very bad weather this party managed some climbing
on Craigminnon. The' rock faces on this hill, although short, provide
some technical problems and members interested should consult Harvey
who is an enthusiast of this district.

BUACHAILLE F.TIVE*. 24-th to 26th Mar ch*

Members: W. Gordon, T. McGuiness, F.&.H Grant,

H. Grant arrived early on Saturday and spent a leisurely day
exploring the Buachallie in brilliant warm sunshine. The following
day the party climbed Crowberry Gully in sleety'rain. The gully
held a remarkable amount of snow and, consequently, many of the rock
pitches were never seen* The climb tcol-c about 3f hours and the only
outstanding features were the small seracs on some of the pitches
and the deep crevasses between the. snow and the rock walls.

The party returned home on the Monday in glorious weather•

EASTER MEET,

BEN LUI.

Members! J. Harvey, Mr. & Mrs. Himlin,

J, Harve y/

9

J* Harvey spent the Saturday at Callander and joined the
^imlins at Tyndrum on Sunday morning. 'This day was spent indoors
in foul weather but a break in the sky on Monday tempted J. Nimlin
and J. Harvey to Conninish and Lui. Central Gully was climbed -amid
showers of snow and hail, the party descending by the same rout*

The gully was in fairly good condition but avalanches of hailstones
and high winds on the summit made this a strenuous day.

CAIRNGORMS*

Members: J. Stevenson, A. Kay, A, Hutchison, R. Hutchison, J,Shanks,

D. Easson, and P. MoGeoch*

A camp was made at the last trees of the Rothiemurchus Forest
which gave shelter from the gales of wind and rain squalls which
characterised the week-end*

Despite the adverse conditions R. Hutchison climbed Sgoran
Dubh on the Saturday and with other members climbed Braeriach on the
Sunday. Snov; for this district and season was sparse though what
there was in the corries and on the summit was hard packed and the
cornices at the head of Col re Brochain would, in better weather have
provided satisfying climbing.

Regret was felt at the destruction by the Army of the Upper and
Lower Bo titles of Glen Ennich. By way of compensation they have built
up with rocks the path leading to Cairn Toul from Loch Ennich.

Another matter for regret was the extent of the Timber Felling
operations in the Rothiemurchus. Several hundred acres have been
denuded and left waste-land. The hauling operations have turned the
road leading down by Loch an Eileln into a quagmire and this road is
definitely net recommended as a route either to or from Aviernore.

It is to be hoped this area will be- ro»aff or stated.